Yellow Fortress, Cemetery and Bezistan
After dinner we walked up to the Yellow Fortress for the Sunset. It was so much easier without our backpacks! On the way we had a quick look at the cemetery which had a really nice view. At the Yellow Fortress there is a cafe (they do not serve alcohol), so we had a pricey coffee and played celebrity heads while waiting for the sun to go down. We waited for about an hour and then left. We heard that there is a better viewpoint somewhere, someone mentioned ‘White Fortress’ but we didn’t end up seeing it. Ricky had a Belgian waffle on the way back down and we had a quick look through the Bezistan markets; don’t stress if you miss it, you already see most things on the street.
Abandoned Bobsled Track, Jiu Jitsu and Sarajevo Brewery
In the morning we booked our bus transfer to Belgrade through our Hostel; ended up costing 25 Euro each. After that we walked to the City Centre Shopping Centre to buy tickets to the Sarajevo Derby that night. Unfortunately the guy at the counter said their system wasn’t working and to try behind the cathedral.
They have a big Kozum supermarket at the shopping centre so we bought heaps of stuff for lunch and snacks. When we got back to the Hostel I skyped my best friends while Ricky did some admin stuff. We were meant to meet some guys from NZ to do the Abandoned Bobsled Track together but we couldn’t find them in the Hostel so got the hostel to call the taxi anyway. When we hopped in, the guys showed up so that was good timing. The taxi cost us 12 BAM all up. It took us about 2 hours all up to see the track, but you could definitely spend hours there taking photos and walking back to the city. Note; do not try to walk there from the city, it’s all uphill and crazy steep. Also watch out for land mine areas.
We had dinner at Petica-Ferhatovic, Ricky was so happy to order something other than red meat. We took the tram out to where Ricky’s Jiu Jitsu class was (BJJ Arena). Here is what happened;
- Their website said 8PM class however the mobile site and FB said 7PM.
- Old timetable has instructions saying it’s near the Penny Plus store in a sports centre. The address on the contact page is on the same street.
- When we got to the sports centre it looked like an indoor Football gym. I walked in and immediately remembered that A. I was a woman/not welcome and B. I was wearing shorts and a singlet; dickhead tourist much?!
- When we got there locals told us to go up the street to the ‘left’ (but pointing right?)
- We found a regular gym, but the guy was dickhead, yelling / shooing at us to come in.
- We decided to give up after we passed a yellow building with a karate poster that no-one was in.
At this stage I wanted chocolate, so we stopped at the Penny Plus and I bought a peach ice-tea and a Milka chocolate before getting on the Tram. Ricky has his bad tourist moment when he caught himself singing the “I can be a big pig” from Lion King… forgot that majority of the population is Muslim.
We stopped at the Sarajevo Brewery and had a beer (Ricky’s dark beer won over my light beer).
The Tea House, Food and Football
Our New Zealand friends Vicky and Andy recommended Cajdzinica Dzirlo aka ‘The Tea House’. Hasan served us and he was so friendly. The drinks were a little bit more expensive, but it was worth it. The service was exceptional. Ricky ordered a Bosnian coffee and Hasan showed him how to pour it and drink it. It also came with side drink to sip during the coffee and a side of Turkish delight. I had the Salep which is made from wild orchids with cinnamon and vanilla. It kind of tasted like porridge, so yum!
On the walk back from our sugar highs Ricky got a street ice-cream while I checked out a clothes shop. Tasted like poo, Bosnian ice-cream isn’t the best; especially in Sarajevo from ASDZ. Between us we got 0.5kg veal burek + mixed salad for less than 10 BAM. We then went to Baklava Bazaar for Turkish sweets. It wasn’t as good as the places in Mostar but still nice. After checking out a bookstore and clothes stores we rushed back to hostel and to go straight to football.
FK Sarajevo (Burgundy) vs Željezničar (Navy Blue). We caught the tram down and walked with th blue supporters. There was barricades everywhere, SWAT teams, coked up police dogs and army uniforms. We went straight to the ticket areas and asked all the guards; no tickets left. We walked around to the other side where red team entered and waited for their grand entrance. It was nuts, firecrackers going off and flares everywhere. We saw an elderly lady dropping water bottles for the fans from her apartment. We gave up on being able to get tickets so we all went to the supermarket and got some beers.
We ended up finding a spot at the back of the stadium where we could watch from (up the hill with other locals, over the back of the stadium wall). We saw the first goal go to Željezničar; crazy celebrations. Heaps of smoke and flares for a couple of minutes. Less than 3 minutes later JK Sarajevo scored and the celebrations lead to a legit fire in the stands. Words can’t describe. The end score was 1-1, and there was no chaos on the way back. We ended up walking all the way back to the Hostel from the Stadium, took like an hour but it was fun. We said goodbye to the Kiwi guys and then checked out Golden Fishy / Zlatna Ribica (Kapitol 5) just because of the good reviews. We stayed for a whole 30seconds, we were way to shattered.
See some of the previous derby craziness; https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nKc7RYvnrzE
Things we missed:
- National Museum – heard mixed reviews.
- Roman Ruins Waterfalls (Skakavac – 12km hike)
- Kino Bosna – Heard from the Belgian people in our original hostel that it’s best on Monday’s, seen some blog posts on it.
- Siege Museum (FAMA) – wasn’t open yet