Getting there and Free Walking Tour
We got the 11am bus from Mostar to Sarajevo (apparently it’s the only one that has aircon). It was relatively cheap and we got there 10 minutes prior so we were happy to jump on. When we got to Sarajevo, we walked to our Hostel from the bus station. It was a 50minute walk, basically near the yellow fortress, so it was completely uphill with our bags.
We rang the bell about 4 times before one of the guys at the hostel opened the gate for us. He told us that there isn’t a reception and instead the owner comes around late in the afternoon. I messaged reception through booking.com while Ricky got us some Burek to each (1 cheese, 1 potato). We waited for over 1 hour before the owner arrived. The place looked like a shithole so we told him we wanted to cancel our 4 nights and only stay 1. He ended up moving us to his city centre Hostel with a nicer room; he was actually really nice, but the service and place was shit.
We managed to still make the 16:30 free walking tour with Insider. Our hostel told us it started on the bridge, it starts in their store on the side street in-line with the bridge. On the tour they covered:
- The Latin Bridge
- Discussed 3 big things in history – WWI, 1984 Winter Olympics, Yugoslav Wars
- Sarajevsko Brewery
- City Hall / Library (Vijecnica)
- Inat Kuca / Spite House
- Places you should buy Cevapi from are the ones that say Ćevabdžinica
- Places you should buy Burek from are the ones that say Buregdžinica
- Copper Street
- Old Town Square (Bascarsija)
- Caravan Saray (Ghazi Husrev Beg’s)
- Mosque (Ghazi Husrev Beg’s)
- Clock tower
- Meeting of Cultures line (Ferhadija Pedestrian Street)
- Jewish Synagogue / Museum
- Catholic Church
- Sarajevo Rose
- Orthodox Church
After the tour we were pretty tired. We went to the Cevapi restaurant that he recommended called Mrkva, it was alright but we were just happy to get a side of grilled vegetables. After that we got some chocolate and went straight to bed!
Franz Ferdinand Hostel, Tunnel Museum and Srebrenica Exhibition
In the morning we checked our of our hostel and walked to our new hostel Franz Ferdinand Boutique Hostel. It was really nice, so much cleaner and modern than the old one. After we left our stuff we did a quick food shop and made ourselves some sandwiches for an early lunch/late breakfast.
The first thing to do on our list was to visit the Tunnel Museum. We took the tram (103) from near our hostel; paid 1.8 BAM each and it took about 35minutes until the last stop. We then walked the 2.5kms to the museum. Heaps of people told us to catch a taxi, but it wasn’t that far and it was a nice day so we just walked. When we got to the museum, a local next door told us that we had to have bought tickets from the city centre; we were devastated. Turns out Bosnian people love to pull tourists legs and after a 30minute conversation we headed over to the Tunnel Museum where you can buy tickets at the kiosk.
It only really takes an hour if you read and watch everything at the museum. The tunnel is only 20m, so you have plenty of time to read up on the history. Also, if you’re a student you get a half price ticket.
Tunnel Museum – probably takes about an hour if you read / watch everything. Note tunnel is very small, only like 20 m so need to read lots to make it worth it.
We went to the 11/07/95 Gallery after that. It has 3 sections; the Siege of Sarajevo / Trio of Sarajevo (Art) / Srebrenica Exhibition. The tickets were 15 BAM, and then to get the audio guide it was another 3 BAM but it was worth it. We spent two or more listening to the long versions of the audio guide and watching all the videos. Unfortunately we didn’t get to go on the computers that had more information as they were always occupied. It was a really intense gallery and surprisingly small but you got a lot out of it. We weren’t allowed to take photos inside.
For dinner we got Cevapi again, this time at a fancier restaurant called Hodžić. It was better than Mostar and we got to try the butter that is like cream, was so good.
How to make a Turkish Coffee; You put cold water, grounds, sugar, cardamom (sometimes) in pot cezve (pronounced “ jezz-va”) and then boil.
How to make a Bosnian Coffee; Boil water separately, put grounds in cezve heat for 7-10s, pour half of the boiling water in, boil 3 times (remove off the stove for 10s after each boil) then after 3, pour the remaining water in from the other pot. Wait for about 2 mins for it to settle.
Other coffee tips:
- In our hostel in Mostar they said you should scoop the top foam bit from the coffee and put it in the bottom of your coffee cup before pouring your coffee in.
- Lady at Kajtaz house in Mostar also said to rub the turkish delight sweet around the rim of the cup before drinking.
- Don’t put sugar in the coffee, dip sugar cube in coffee, take a bite and sip the coffee and mix in mouth.